Wolf Creek Ski Area
Pagosa Springs, CO; (970) 264-5639
Internet: www.wolfcreekski.com
7 lifts; 1,600 acres; 1,604 vertical feet; base elevation 10,300 feet; summit elevation 11,904 feet

Wolf Creek -- More snow. Less Lodging.

Wolf Creek is the “non-resort” where skiers and riders go to drown themselves in fresh powder, explore the trees and launch off cliffs. Most of the time, you’re not on a marked trail and fresh tracks can be found days after storms. This isn’t a destination resort with endless groomers, cute shops and activities for non-skiers. It’s a gateway to the backcountry.

Because of the tremendous amounts of snow, avalanche control is a big issue. There are gates to access the ridgeline between Treasure Chair and Boundary Bowl, the Waterfall area, Montezuma Bowl, the Knife Ridge Chutes and Horseshoe Bowls. Unlike bigger resorts, Wolf Creek doesn’t go out of its way to dynamite every rock, pull every stump, or remove every downed tree, all of which actually improve the stability of the snow pack. They just let the snow bury it all.

The facilities at the base of family-owned Wolf Creek are limited: a ticket office, a cafeteria and bar, a restaurant, restrooms, a tiny ski shop and an even tinier rental shop. But Wolf Creek has a wonderful feel to it. In the cafeteria you’ll enjoy homemade soups served from crockpots, and fresh egg salad sandwiches rather than frozen production-line, hockey-puck burgers. On sunny days the patio is popular, and brown-bagging is welcome.

Holy Moses, visible from the lift, only begins to give advanced skiers and riders a taste of what’s available. For an even bigger taste, try black diamonds Prospector and Glory Hole. The Waterfall area is served by the new Alberta Lift (formerly served by snowcat). To access the gates leading here, ride Treasure Chair, then follow Navajo Trail or shortcut down lower Glory Hole. Stay slightly skier’s right to get to Alberta Lift, which serves only expert terrain off Knife Ridge. The only other way to reach the intermediate Burn Area farther down the bowl is Park Avenue, an intermediate run that’s available as an escape route. A bit of hiking will take extreme skiers and riders over to Horseshoe Bowl, the resort’s eastern-most bowl.

Advanced-intermediates should head for Silver Streak, Treasure, Alberta and Tranquility off Treasure Chair. Lower-level intermediates will enjoy trails like Charisma, Powder Puff and Windjammer off Bonanza chair. Snowboarders: Don’t bother looking for a halfpipe and terrain park; there are none. Take advantage of the natural terrain features instead. Beginners should stick to the new Raven Chair and either Bunny Hop or Kelly Boyce trails. First-timers have a moving carpet and beginner’s lift in front of the lodge. Here's a trail map.

We suggest you stay in either South Fork or, preferably, Pagosa Springs (as in Pagosa Hot Springs). Once you get past the slight sulfur smell, Pagosa’s 11 different pools, all at different temperatures, are about the finest apres-ski experience there is. They’re on the river, suitable for an icy plunge to make your skin tingle. Pagosa Springs has an old-world charm that’s hard to describe. And it’s inexpensive compared to destination resorts.

Lift tickets (2007/08 prices): Adults, $48; children (6-12) and seniors (65 and older), $26; kids 5 and younger, $5.

Driving distances: From Durango, 72 miles east on Hwy. 160; from Pagosa Springs, 23 miles; from South Fork, 18 miles. You’ll need a four-wheel drive vehicle.

Lodging information: The resort does not have lodging and it doesn’t handle lodging reservations, but you’ll find a complete listing of nearby accommodations on the resort website. Other resources: Pagosa Springs Chamber, (800) 252-2204 or www.pagosaspringschamber.com; South Fork Business Association, (800) 571-0881 or www.southfork.org/lodging.