Families and friends who have gone to the Central Rockies for years for their annual ski vacations, in their quest for something new, are gravitating to the Selkirks at the western edge of the northern Rockies. That means the Idaho panhandle, snuggled between Montana and Washington, home to Schweitzer and Silver mountain resorts.

Coeur d'Alene Region Facts

Phone: (208) 664-3194
Toll-free information: (877) 782-9232
Internet: www.coeurdalene.org (visitors bureau)
E-mail: info@coeurdalene.org
Bed base: 1,500 rooms

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Schweitzer Mountain Resort is big—2,900 skiable acres—and it’s coming on big in the minds of destination skiers. It’s especially favorable to skiers who like a resort where one skier per acre is a crowded day. That makes it equally delightful for experts and beginners alike. Named for a Swiss hermit who once settled on the mountain, it’s one of Idaho’s largest resorts. It overlooks a huge lake, Lake Pend Orielle, and also has an attractive mountain village at its base area. As if being in northern Idaho isn’t remote enough, with a 9-mile access road, you really are getting away from it all here.

As for Silver Mountain, well, in 1989, an Associated Press story announced the bad news: “Liability risks and increased costs of maintaining a dangerous mountain road have prompted Kellogg’s City Council to close Silverhorn Ski Area this winter.” It went on to announce the good news: “The hill will reopen next year under the new name of Silver Mountain and with a new $13-million gondola.” The resort and its north-facing slopes went from zero in 1989 to Snow Country Magazine’s Top 50 ski resorts in four years. It’s certainly worth getting to know now, before it gets even bigger. Management says an adjacent 32,000 acres of private land is available for future development.

Coeur d'Alene
Both mountains are roughly equidistant from the lakeside city of Coeur d’Alene, a fun place to stay. It’s thriving with plenty of dining, nightlife and shopping. The lake, one of 55 in the area, is more than 25 miles long. Near town are plenty of parks and hiking trails, and the Coeur d’Alene Resort has a floating boardwalk over the water that’s almost a mile long.

Coeur d’Alene, in the center of Northern Idaho, is a central base for exploring the area. It offers all the features of big-town life with a small-town ambience. The downtown area is alongside Lake Coeur d’Alene, which has 135 miles of shoreline. Many cruise boats offer lake trips to watch eagles, take in the scenery, eat dinner or visit the Famous Floating Golf Green and dozens of quiet coves. The cruises are on hiatus for most of the winter, but from Thanksgiving to New Year's, they tour around the area lakeside properties, which are festively lighted for the holiday season.

If you plan to ski at Silver Mountain or Schweitzer, make your base at the world-class Coeur d’Alene Resort (800-688-5253; 765-4000; $$–$$$$). The Resort is in the heart of downtown, on the lakeshore. It boasts a full-service spa, fitness center and four restaurants, including the newly renovated Beverly’s ($$$–$$$$), an elegant, prize-winning, top-floor restaurant with spectacular views and a million-dollar wine inventory. Transportation is available to both mountains; an airport shuttle also is available.

Don’t leave this city without a visit to Hudson’s Hamburgers ($) for a “Huddy Burger.” Just a block from the Coeur d’Alene Resort, it’s an institution. Opened in 1907, the small diner-like restaurant with a simple, long counter lined by stools has been in the Hudson family for three generations. They offer three choices—hamburgers with pickles, onions and/or cheese—and each burger is made from scratch. They also offer three special sauces, which you can buy for a reasonable price (the hot spicy mustard is a treasure if you like hot and spicy).

The best breakfast around is at the Coeur d’Alene Resort at Dockside ($). It also has the best view. Everyone’s favorite is the Sunday brunch at $25. Other great breakfasts can be had at Michael D’s ($) at the end of Main Street and at The Breakfast Nook ($), known for crab omelets and hash browns.

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