Twenty-five miles of groomed trails, actually summer roads, wind around four of the dozen or more high Alpine lakes for which the town of Mammoth Lakes is named. Tamarack Lodge (800-626-6684; 760-934-2442), a former summer hunting and fishing lodge now owned by Mammoth Mountain, maintains the trails. Rentals and lessons are available. On weekends it's advisable to reserve. Luxury and rustic cabins are available for rent.

The Lakes Basin includes many trailheads into the backcountry, where no fee is charged. Stop into the lobby, where mulled cider is on hand and historical vibes radiate from the gigantic old stone fireplace. Special nighttime ski and snowshoe tours are offered under full moons, but because that's only three days per month, they tend to fill up quickly.

Here's a cross-country trail map.